GSMNP boat and hiking trip

One week ago I tested my body with some short sprints on turf, just 7 sprints ranging from 30m to 60m, 80-90% effort.  And it reaffirmed the fact - there is NO parallel exercise.  There is nothing that uses the hams and hip flexors quite the same way.  Despite the small workout, my hams were sore for 5+ days, and I could still feel the soreness at the start of the hiking trip.  

We left Friday evening for Fontana Lake, 180 mile trip, put the boat in after midnight on a sketchy earth and gravel ramp at Almond, NC.  Fortunately, it was dry, would have been dangerous if wet.  The lake is low, down 40' from full.  With the heavy load, I had to use low range 4x4 with hubs locked and back down super slow.  We didn't get to bed til after 2am, as I boated several miles to the center of the lake where cell service was the best and I could get reliable internet.  It was cold, clear, in the 40ºs.   

In this complex lake, knowing the shear depth of the lake and trusting my instruments, once I get into the open water, I can cruise at night virtually blind, fogged windows etc...  But we had a full moon and that helps a lot.  

Day 1, we did a mostly flat 6 mile hike at Forney Creek, actually saw a few other people, which is rare in this extremely remote part of the park, only easily accessible by boat, but it was Sat.  

Day 2, took it easy and walked a few miles to the ghost town of Proctor at the end of Hazel Creek, no one there.  We also walked around the dam and went in the visitors center on the last day it was open. 

Day 3, the big hike.  In years past, this was the 'short hike' but now, it was a maximum hike. The hike up the Appalachian Trail from the lake at Fontana Dam to the Shuckstack tower is about 8.5 miles round trip, it has a vertical climb of 2400'.  I remember running up this trail 20 yrs ago with Scott S. and summiting in about 75min.  Today, with numerous short rest breaks and the need to patch a heel blister, it took 2x as long, about 2.5 hrs.  The weather was perfect, sunny mid 70ºs at the lake, low-mid 60ºs at the tower.  The climb was tough in places, about 28% grade.  My HR during the steeper climbs stayed in the 130-150 rang while Roya's was 110ish.   The fall colors were awesome, approaching peak above 3500', about 10 days away from peak at lake level. 

 

To get from the lake up from the boat took a serious steep climb up a driftwood strewn bank to the paved road coming across the dam.   I've always done this to save the extra mile of walking across the dam and back, and provided a hidden place to leave the boat for 5 hrs.  Roya did not like the climb. 

We got to the tower and had it to ourselves for 45 min until another couple arrived just as we were leaving.  It was spectacular as usual.  I was hungry, ate 4 Kind bars with hot tea at the top of the tower. 

Going down took almost as long even without breaks.  It was harder on the knees.  I definitely had some knee pain and weakness on both by the time it was over.  

Roya didn't want to climb down the steep back to the boat so she elected to walk the half mile across the dam and meet me at a 'beach' below a tourist overlook picnic area.  That set up an unfortunate circumstance.

I get down to the boat OK, motor over to the pickup spot and Roya is not there.  I assumed maybe she went to the toilet at the visitors center at the dam.   So I get on the toilet in the boat, and from the window, I hear her yelling from the dam, telling me to come up.  I couldn't really understand what she was saying.  That was the last thing I wanted to do at that point but I did, I put my shoes on and ran up the bank, thinking she might have some problem.  When I get there, the problem has abated and she said she was delayed because of a bear on the walk path.  I was pissed.  What was I supposed to do about it?  She along with 2 tourists scared the bear away so that she could pass.  By the time I got there, the issue was over and I painfully ran up there for no real reason.  She was upset that I was upset.  Well, at least I DID respond and go up.  I was more worried that she may have been accosted or approached by a redneck, walking alone across the dam at dusk. Oh well, she got over it.

Day 4, did some light hiking up to the Cable cemetery and went for a wonderful swim in these exceptionally clear and clean waters.   Water temperature was higher than normal for this time of year, 71º.  Cool and brisk for swimming but with full sun and air temps in the mid 70ºs, it felt great.

I am continually astonished by this place.  The only lake where I've ever been on a weekend and seen almost no other boats, maybe 2 over the whole day.  A true wilderness experience and such a pristine environment.  It's quite an ordeal to get here but well worth it and I hope to return every year.  Sometimes I wonder if that would be my last hike to Shuckstack.  I know I've likely taken my last hike to other more distant peaks, High Rocks - 15 mile round trip, and Clingman's Dome from Forney Creek - 25 mile round trip and nearly 5000' climb.  

I'll be back on the bike this week but no more attempts to run for at least a week.  Recovery is everything at this point.  

Still maintaining a decent weight, around 143.  My diet has lapsed a bit and this week's blood work will be revealing.   

Spring '19 wildflowers

Did a couple wildflower hikes in Sewanee's Shakerag Hollow.  One in late March, one mid April.

The wildflowers were out but different.  In March, many white and yellow flowers - Dutchman's Britches, Celadine Poppy, Trout Lily.   But in April, the flowers of blue and purple were out, but only a few trillium.



Here's some photos from March.











Some volatile spring weather... was 80º yesterday, slight possibility of snow tonight with a low in the 30ºs.  Back up to near 80º again by Monday!

UPDATE:
The morning of April 20 was unusual.  A cold pocket of air settled in around the S. Cumberland.  It was colder here than anywhere in the state, (excluding the high peaks of the Smokies).  It got down to 35º and by 5am, a few wet snowflakes were seen.  The high for the day was only 41º with rain most of the day.  Bright green hues on a dark cold foggy spring day:

Update: After a winter-like weekend where on Saturday 4/20, the temperature only reached 41º, Monday and the rest of the week looks and feel like summer:

Fall Boating

This fall, I rediscovered the fun of boating... living on the water for a few days, connecting with nature and spending time in Chattanooga.  After correcting some issues with a fuel line, the boat ran great all fall.  I kept the boat in Sewanee for much of September and October.  Was sad to have to winterize it after my third trip to Chattanooga on Nov. 3.

Cool weather cruising... last trip - Nov. 4 at Williams Is. TN River

I made a great trip to Fontana Lake with Roya.  We hiked from Eagle Creek up to the Shuckstack tower on the Lost Cove trail, the steepest trail in the Smokies.  It seemed really hard.  Beautiful weather.

Fontana Lake Sunset

Forney Creek Trail - GSMNP

Click on photo to get the full view  ---  View from Shuckstack Tower - Appalachian Trail

Trailering 

After the Fontana Lake trip, I took 3 trips alone up the TN River through the beautiful TN River Gorge to Chattanooga.  I spent one night on the river each time.  I get really decent internet through my phone on Verizon so I signed up for an unlimited data plan so I could watch movies and stream TV on my laptop.  Makes cruising pretty nice.

I took my bike each time and spent a fair amount of time in Chattanooga, meeting up with friend Bill once for a nice pub dinner and a beer.  Bill also gave me a tour of his ceramics plant.   I also stopped at the Raccoon mountain dock and biked to the top of the mountain.  Another stop I took was Williams Island... a large river island near Chattanooga that has campsites and a working farm with cattle.  I mountain biked around the island.

At the Raccoon Mountain dock - TN River Gorge

Biking at Raccoon Mtn.

Morning in the TN River Gorge

See the photo that was taken first thing in the morning in the TN River Gorge when waking up.  It was a pretty intense night as a cold front came in dropping the temperature 20º from 55º to 35º and the wind was strong.  As you can see, the morning was lovely.  There is a stretch of the gorge where there is no road on one shore, and no houses.  It's very isolated and beautiful.

The above photo was taken at Williams Is. dock in Chattanooga. It's a large island, 450 acres. This article on Williams Island mentions the history and the farm.   As you can see, that last trip was cool weather so I had the canvas up and the heat on much of the time.   I don't mind cool weather cruising, actually prefer it to hot weather cruising.  My cabin is pretty cozy and I have a DC electric blanket that works quite well to take any chill off.

For the first time, I found a place to dock on the north shore of Chattanooga.  It's an old landing, a grassy bank with a metal rail to tie up to on an abandoned lot.  You can see in the photo if you look hard my boat tied up to the north shore.  The north shore is pretty awesome,  it has a great number of shops and restaurants, all in a very close proximity including Whole Foods.

North Shore of Chattanooga

I've been very focused on training in the spring and have ignored (but not neglected) the boat for most of the spring and summer.  I can see right now if I get more into boating, I could be spending some money on the boat.  It sorely needs the seats redone, and it hasn't been buffed and waxed in forever. The back canvas could use some repair as well.  The exhaust manifolds and risers is a major engine job - actually pretty simple in theory - that I'm going to attempt myself in the spring.  I want to learn to do more maintenance by myself, including replacing the lower unit water pump when needed.  Youtube instruction videos are a game changer.  The trailer bearings need to be replaced and I even priced a new trailer because it would be nice to have electric trailer brakes and my trailer brakes haven't worked in yrs.  To get my present trailer fixed with new bearings and new electric brakes if I paid someone to do it could cost $1500.  I could sell that trailer for $1000 and buy a brand new one for $5000 with all the bells and whistles that would be safe and last me the rest of my life.

I'd like to also build a boat shelter for it in Sewanee, a barn / workshop and on a concrete slab.  So... the engine work, a new trailer, new interior/ seats... that's close to $10k right there.   A slab and a simple roof (like this) would cost $10k.  I'll probably put priority on the mechanical and perhaps the pole barn.  I'll repair my trailer bearings, probably not worry about the brakes.  The trailer bearings have never failed, they just leak grease but I keep them packed.  They are the original bearings over 30 yrs old so I don't want to wait for trouble.  I think I'd like to do this myself because if I ever have a bearing issue on the road, I want to know how to repair it.   I'd save 5 to $600 if I did it myself.  I'd save over $1000 in doing the manifolds.

One of the reasons I've been reluctant to boat in mid summer is the southern heat.  But, I've even thought of rigging a compact a/c unit for the cabin (like this) coupled with a portable generator (like this) that I could build a mount above the swim platform.

Anyway, don't want to get carried away with spending on the boat but it may prove to be a fun hobby, including the learning the maintenance.  Truly amazing that I've had this boat 27 years.

Spring wildflowers in Sewanee '18

Glad I got out before the 2 freezes we've had since I took these photos on 4/6.  With a rain storm coming that turned to snow flurries the next day, I got out on the Shakerag Hollow part of the Sewanee Perimeter trail from Greens View.   Writing this on 4/16, we had a light dusting of snow last night and several hours of sub freezing temperatures.  I hope the tender new leaves aren't damage.

Glad I still have some firewood.  Cold today... in the 30ºs. 

Not great photos, some a bit out of focus, took them quickly with my phone.  I like the Dutchman's Breeches (1), and Jack in the Pulpit (4).  This was a perfect time to hike, no one there, a week before the local wildflower festival, and on a Friday morning.  It was very beautiful and peaceful.

Boating, hiking ... Sewanee to Chattanooga to NC

It was a great week.   Brought the boat to my house in Sewanee for the first time en route to the TN River, Chattanooga, and Fontana Lake in the GSMNP.

I'd studied it for a long time and was confident I could get the boat up my driveway in Sewanee and turn it around.  No problem.

Roya and I enjoyed a Monday evening workout in Sewanee's Fowler Center then left Tuesday for the TN River Gorge.  Cruising the 30 miles from Marion Co. park to Chattanooga, the old boat performed flawlessly, cruising at 32 mph.   After an IMAX movie and a trip to the Aquarium, we had dinner and left for a night on the boat in the gorge.   There is one place, just up river from the Raccoon Mtn TVA facility, that is completely wild and undeveloped, with high mountains on both sides.   We floated at sunset down river a mile or 2 in this location, my favorite part of the river.  Just beautiful.  I swear, we did not see one other boat for 12 hrs, all night long.   Highly unusual for a commercially navigated waterway.

We pulled out on Wednesday and arrived at Fontana Lake late afternoon on Wed.  After dinner, swimming and watching the sunset, we took a night time walk on the dam.  Beautiful.

Thursday we did the 8 mile round trip to Shuckstack from Eagle Creek up the Lost Cove Trail to the Appalachian Trail.   The climb was difficult as usual.  2500' in 4 miles.  Great weather.  Glad to see all the wood on the tower has been replaced.   Looks like they'll keep it for a while.   Unfortunately, it is not possible to get on the roof of the lookout shack like we used to.  They put a solid piece of plywood on the roof.

Friday morning early, it rain and rained for 9 hrs.  Good time to watch  movies.  We got a brief respite early afternoon and took the opportunity to head back to Mufreesboro.   We encountered one brief intense storm approaching Monteagle.   The same storm seemed to spawn a tornado captured on my weather station webcam in Sewanee.

Great trip.

Here's the photos!

Fontana Lake sunset

Dawn on the TN River

Fontana Dam

Roya in the creek

Roya on the Shuckstack tower

Appalachian Trail

View from the Shuckstack tower

Friday's tornado in Sewanee - 8/8

The boat's first trip to Sewanee