Bill's TN Paradise: GSMNP boat and hiking trip

One week ago I tested my body with some short sprints on turf, just 7 sprints ranging from 30m to 60m, 80-90% effort. And it reaffirmed the fact - there is NO parallel exercise. There is nothing that uses the hams and hip flexors quite the same way. Despite the small workout, my hams were sore for 5+ days, and I could still feel the soreness at the start of the hiking trip.

We left Friday evening for Fontana Lake, 180 mile trip, put the boat in after midnight on a sketchy earth and gravel ramp at Almond, NC. Fortunately, it was dry, would have been dangerous if wet. The lake is low, down 40' from full. With the heavy load, I had to use low range 4x4 with hubs locked and back down super slow. We didn't get to bed til after 2am, as I boated several miles to the center of the lake where cell service was the best and I could get reliable internet. It was cold, clear, in the 40ºs.

In this complex lake, knowing the shear depth of the lake and trusting my instruments, once I get into the open water, I can cruise at night virtually blind, fogged windows etc... But we had a full moon and that helps a lot.

Day 1, we did a mostly flat 6 mile hike at Forney Creek, actually saw a few other people, which is rare in this extremely remote part of the park, only easily accessible by boat, but it was Sat.

Day 2, took it easy and walked a few miles to the ghost town of Proctor at the end of Hazel Creek, no one there. We also walked around the dam and went in the visitors center on the last day it was open.

Day 3, the big hike. In years past, this was the 'short hike' but now, it was a maximum hike. The hike up the Appalachian Trail from the lake at Fontana Dam to the Shuckstack tower is about 8.5 miles round trip, it has a vertical climb of 2400'. I remember running up this trail 20 yrs ago with Scott S. and summiting in about 75min. Today, with numerous short rest breaks and the need to patch a heel blister, it took 2x as long, about 2.5 hrs. The weather was perfect, sunny mid 70ºs at the lake, low-mid 60ºs at the tower. The climb was tough in places, about 28% grade. My HR during the steeper climbs stayed in the 130-150 rang while Roya's was 110ish. The fall colors were awesome, approaching peak above 3500', about 10 days away from peak at lake level.

To get from the lake up from the boat took a serious steep climb up a driftwood strewn bank to the paved road coming across the dam. I've always done this to save the extra mile of walking across the dam and back, and provided a hidden place to leave the boat for 5 hrs. Roya did not like the climb.

We got to the tower and had it to ourselves for 45 min until another couple arrived just as we were leaving. It was spectacular as usual. I was hungry, ate 4 Kind bars with hot tea at the top of the tower.

Going down took almost as long even without breaks. It was harder on the knees. I definitely had some knee pain and weakness on both by the time it was over.

Roya didn't want to climb down the steep back to the boat so she elected to walk the half mile across the dam and meet me at a 'beach' below a tourist overlook picnic area. That set up an unfortunate circumstance.

I get down to the boat OK, motor over to the pickup spot and Roya is not there. I assumed maybe she went to the toilet at the visitors center at the dam. So I get on the toilet in the boat, and from the window, I hear her yelling from the dam, telling me to come up. I couldn't really understand what she was saying. That was the last thing I wanted to do at that point but I did, I put my shoes on and ran up the bank, thinking she might have some problem. When I get there, the problem has abated and she said she was delayed because of a bear on the walk path. I was pissed. What was I supposed to do about it? She along with 2 tourists scared the bear away so that she could pass. By the time I got there, the issue was over and I painfully ran up there for no real reason. She was upset that I was upset. Well, at least I DID respond and go up. I was more worried that she may have been accosted or approached by a redneck, walking alone across the dam at dusk. Oh well, she got over it.

Day 4, did some light hiking up to the Cable cemetery and went for a wonderful swim in these exceptionally clear and clean waters. Water temperature was higher than normal for this time of year, 71º. Cool and brisk for swimming but with full sun and air temps in the mid 70ºs, it felt great.

I am continually astonished by this place. The only lake where I've ever been on a weekend and seen almost no other boats, maybe 2 over the whole day. A true wilderness experience and such a pristine environment. It's quite an ordeal to get here but well worth it and I hope to return every year. Sometimes I wonder if that would be my last hike to Shuckstack. I know I've likely taken my last hike to other more distant peaks, High Rocks - 15 mile round trip, and Clingman's Dome from Forney Creek - 25 mile round trip and nearly 5000' climb.